Moderation is key
Albert Eickhoff is considered by many to be the éminence grise of German style. He runs a boutique in Düsseldorf, Germany, and is an undisputed expert on up-market women’s clothing. But for Best Practice, Mr. Eickhoff has put on a different hat, delving into the world of men’s fashion. The result is valuable advice on looking sharp in the office this fall.
Whether driving in a car or waiting at the airport, traveling in a train or working at the office, today’s executives spend most of their time sitting down. Often, they will spend eight hours in a chair, interrupted only by a heavy business lunch or perhaps a light snack. But whether you are navigating a restaurant menu or the men’s section of a clothing store, the key to looking good is moderation. And a good tailor can guide you along the way.
This fall, or any season, for that matter, he should not steer you towards fleeting trends and short-lived fads – that’s what men’s fashion magazines are for. But be careful: the study of these publications will not necessarily keep you from committing faux pas of fashion. Potential pitfalls are everywhere: on Königsallee in Düsseldorf, on Jungfernstieg in Hamburg, on Maximilianstrasse in Munich. I speak from experience. One of my greatest sins was a Rudolph Moshammer velvet Mao jacket that I wore in the 1970s. And they say that in Carnaby Street’s heyday I was known to sport fringed leather jackets. What I want to say is: an honest clothier will answer all of your fashion questions, but will resist the temptation to dress his customers in all the latest styles, head to toe, making them look ridiculous the minute they step outside of his studio. A good tailor will remain steadfast.
Dress for success
A jacket, shirt and pants do not just have to fit the wearer’s personality. They also have to fit per se, no matter how tall, broad or rotund the purchaser. Wearing a shirt that looks like it has been borrowed from your personal trainer does not make a very positive impression at the office.
Let’s start with the suit. Light colors are too summery, and do not belong in the world of work. In business situations, I almost always wear a blue, black or dark-gray double-breasted jacket. No matter the season, I like fabrics high on cashmere and low on poplin. I always wear black shoes with a suit, even during the day, never brown. When choosing a pocket square, go for linen, not silk. And never (!) the same pattern as your tie. My pocket square is almost always white (as is my shirt), and never fraternizes with my solid-color ties.
Ask your tailor for an “unfused” (sometimes referred to as “canvassed”) suit. This simply means that a horse-hair canvas is sewn into the jacket, not glued. This extra layer ensures that the outside fabric will hold up even during marathon eight-to-five meetings, and that wrinkles will quickly disappear after you stand up. Another advantage is that a canvassed suit will not get the dreaded “bubbling” effect associated with fused suits, and will maintain its shape even after two visits to the dry cleaner.
When choosing a jacket, I recommend two vents, called British-style or one vent, or American-style. Jackets with no vents are too “German”. You should resist the urge to get a ticket pocket, [Hinweis: Tippfehler im deutschen Text: Billettasche] the small additional pocket some tailors like to place above a jacket’s right pocket. It’s superfluous in an age when tickets can be booked online or with a cell phone. The lining should be made of high-quality rayon or silk, and should not clash with the color of the jacket. A neon yellow lining lurking beneath an otherwise somber suit could lead your customers or business partners to misconstrue your true intentions and character.
Trend barometert for fall
Vests are particularly well-suited for fall weather. They are perfect for occasions when you wish to remove your jacket, but do not want to be left wearing just a shirt. But remember: vests should only be worn with single-breasted suits. Fall is also the time when many companies organize office parties and other festivities. A vest with a discrete width adjuster on the back is a wise choice, as it allows you to adjust it to your varying dimensions during different times of day - and the morning after your company’s Christmas party.
This fall, pants once again have to be lighter than the jacket. Everything else is a no-no, not just when you walk into the office, but the moment you leave your house. The only exception to this rule is a white tuxedo.
A trend for this coming autumn that slightly concerns me is the apparent appeal of “new classic” styles. Office workers are combining tightly-fitting suits with checkered shirts and cardigans in gray, green or even more daring colors. Or they wear a black suit with a checkered shirt and a tie - sometimes even a knit tie. I have nothing against such trends, but I personally will never succumb to them again. Every man has to decide for himself to what extent he wants to incorporate fleeting fads into his wardrobe. Whether at the tailor, in a department store, or at the restaurant, it’s all about moderation and striking the right balance.
